Kristy Blick, Co-founder and Chairman, Elimu Africa:   www.elimuafrica.org

My name is Kristy Blick and I live in Minnesota with my husband Gerry.  I have two grown daughters.  I'm an exercise physiologist and work in a hospital doing cardiac rehabilitation and also present health seminars and do wellness coaching for corporations.  I enjoy playing the flute, yoga, taking walks, biking, reading, cooking - if some one else cleans up, traveling, gardening, movies and doing just about anything with people I love.

In February, 2005, I was a volunteer with Cross Cultural Solutions at Upendo Orphanage in Moshi, Tanzania.  Two weeks into my trip, I met Mama Lucy Renju, Second Chance Education Center founder and after a nice picnic lunch and a tour of the fledgling school, she said "So when will you come and teach?"  Since I had immediately fallen in love with Mama Lucy and the students, I found myself agreeing to start the following afternoon.  The experiences that followed were heart warming and heart breaking and overall, inspiring.

Since I have returned home, I realized that my trip to Africa was not complete and that the trip itself was just the beginning.  I hope that helping this group of people have a better life will always be a part of my life's journey.  I am grateful to have the encouragement of my family, friends and co-volunteers along the way.

Below are my very lengthy, uncensored and unedited journals from my trip.  I hope this gives you a flavor of what it is like to volunteer in Tanzania.  As you will see - I loved it!!! 

I have a speical place in my heart for the beautiful girls and women of Africa.  The issue of gender equity and women's empowerment is near and dear to me.  If fact so much so that  I wrote a song to inspre the girls and women of Africa to get their education, learn their rights and stand up and be heard.  If you scroll through all that pages of journals, you will find the lyrics of the song, Miss Africa.  If you would like to purchase a copy of it as a donation to the causse of Elimu Africa,  please contact me.

Sunday, Feb 6, 2005

Hi Everyone

I have made it to Africa and am feeling great.  The trip was very long and tiring.  24 hours in all.  A 4 hour layover on Amsterdam.  But all went well, my luggage arrived and I met some really nice people along the way.  Seveal women traveling alone to either volunteer or to go on Safari or climb Mt Kili.  I felt very safe and comfortable - except a numb butt after such a long plane trip.

I am surprised at how good I feel today.  I thought I would be just  a fried, aching mass of sore muscles and in a zombie like state due to extreme lack of sleep, culture shock and jet lag.  Actually, I feel very comfortable here and not a bit shocked.  Just excited and curious and a little inept. I don't understand Tanzanian schilllings yet and had to have the women running the internet cafe count out the right denomination to pay form my internet usage.  So, yes, there are things to learn and I am an anxious and willing student.

I got to the volunteer house at around 10:30 PM last night and got unpacked and settled in.  The house itself is very charming and comfortable.  There is a little outdoor courtyard where we eat and gather to visit.  My room is tiny and since I was the last to arrive - I am on the top bunk.  That is a difficulty with an old bladder and having to drink a lot of water each day to stay hydrated. 

I awoke this morning to a rooster crowing at 4:00 AM.  Then all his friends in the neighborhood answered him for the next 2 hours.  Being an animal lover, I resisted the urge to ring his neck and finally at 6:30 AM, I got up. It was a happy sight to see that there were not bugs on my netting or in my bed.  I have heard from the other volunteers that there are some real doozys.  Also, the rainy season starts in about 3 weeks and I guess that brings out a lot of critters.

Than I had breakfast - fruit and a baked rolled up thing with veggies in it.  It was really good.  Met the other volunteers and we had a great talk.  Very interesting and fun people.  Then I took a cool "bird bath"  - very low water pressure here.  And I just know that I am going to forget and use the tap water to brush my teeth!  Not a good idea here.  I already know I have brought too much along with me.  Yes, Gerry I will admit you were right.  No need for makeup or primping here.  Just get up, pull the hair back into a pony and go.  Love it!

After that, we all walked into town - about a 20 minute walk.  One of the volunteeers is a 20 year college student from Canada who ahds been here 3 months so he is showing us the ropes. 

It is very safe to go out even alone.  There were lots of villagers out walking, socializing and coming back from church.  It is almost surreal.  Women carrying baskets on their heads and babies on thier backs.  The children are very excited to see us and say "Habari" with cute shy smiles.   The adults have been very sweet and friendly.  Also forgiving of our somewhat lame attempts at Swahili.  I am already in love with these people.  They have a joyful way about them which is magical to be around.

It is 85 degrees  and sunny now, but that will be changing in a few weeks.  I understand that it rains almost continuously in March - so I had better enjoy this now.  I guess the mud is just incredible too.

The village is not what i pictured.  It looks more westernized than I imagined - but not fancy at all.  Mostly dirt roads which are very bumpy in spots.  I was told that if I am walking, to definatley move out of the way of the "dali-dalis - which are trasport vans because they will run anything over that happens to be in their path.  They pack these vans to the hilt - it is not uncommon to have someone riding on laps.  It looks pretty funny - like the packing people into a phone booth trick. 

There are lots contrasts here in the village - some very rough looking buildings and some very nice looking ones too. Also, everyone here looks very happy and healthy.  Already though I can tell that the way of life is much slower and simpler than ours.  And, from what I can see so far we Americans don't neccisarrly seem happier.

Right now I am at an internet coffee shop.  Again, I am surprised at this modern cafe among such rough surroundings.  And, this is airconditioned which is a nice welcome change.  Our house is not airconditioned and I am not acclimatized yet, so it was a warm night's sleep.  I am not complaining though - it feels great.

We can see Mt Kili if we climb up the watch tower on our property.  It is amazing to see.  Very big and snow capped.  I hope to get there while I am in town.

Tomorrow, Mon, we have a lot of instruction on living here and our jobs.  Then on Tues I will be at the orphanage.  I cannot wait to get my hands on those babies.  I am so exctited to get started. 

I think that's enough for now.  I hope you are all feeling well.  I welcome e-mails form home. 

Take care

love Kristy

Feb 9, 2005

Hi all

I so much appreciate hearing from you - helps with the little bit of a case of missing you.

I have too much to talk about and my fingers cannot even keep up.

First, I am feeling good and really love it here - especially the people.  They are so incredibly friendly and kind and open.  They are very patient and amused by feeble attempts at Swahili.

I have been at the orphanage 2 days now.  It is called Upendo which means love.  I am working with the toddlers to 3 year olds.  When we first arrived in the van, the kids ran to greet us.  I was wondering if they would be afraid of Mzungu - white people, but no, they wrapped themselves around my leg, and held their arms up to be held.  They do not speak English, but is amazing how you communicate with body language.  I today I was rocking about 8 of them on a little teeter totter and singing Old McDonald - had a few singing "ee i ee i oh!"  very cute.  They smile and laugh if I play peek a boo, or hold them - turn them up side down or jiggle them on my lap.  They react the same as any little one would.  The outdoor playground is mostly dirt, with a little grass.  It has swings and a teeter totter and that  is it.  So, we have to get creative with entertaining them.  I had brought a view master and once they understood how to look in it, they swarmed me saying "mi mi tena" (me again).  This lasted approx an hour.  Also, I had a balloon ball I brought.  Played catch and had a few try to make off with the ball and had to chase them down.  Definitely do not need a Stairmaster to get exercise here.  One little boy named Pascal is very coordinated and we played soccer with the ball. 

One goal was to prevent being peed or pooed on, with marginal success.  Fortunately, they call the potty chair a pot.  Easy to remember.  I saw Esto, a cute four year old with an impish personality, holding himself so took him to the pot.  As he did his business, Moodie, a busy little boy who seems to get into a bit of trouble withthe nurses,  kept running his hands through the stream making them both laugh and I didn't' have enough hands to stop it.  Made sure they washed with soap when we went in for morning milk.  The helpers are girls ages 16-20 who are training to be "nurses"  They wear bright pink dresses with a white apron.  very shy and sweet - amused by us.

At 10:00 we all hold hands and go in for warm, reconstituted milk.  The nurses sing African nursery songs - even harmonize - it's really beautiful.  They are affectionate with the kids.  A few months ago, when the first volunteers first started, apparently the nurses sometimes hit the kids to discipline, but the volunteer stopped them and I have not seen it.  I will correct it if I do see it.

After morning milk, thy kids are placed on plastic pots until they go.  It's kid of sad in a way, but with this many kids, it seems to work to get the potty training accomplished.  then they play indoors in a little room.  They hardly have any toys so resort to turning over the chairs and laughing as they bang them on the floor. I just sit down on the floor and let who ever needs a lap session come on over.  Usually there are at least 2 or 3 at a time. 

They eat lunch at 11:00 and it is a maize, milk and bean mixture.  They really gobble it down.

I also worked feeding the little 12-18 mo old babies.  Then, took them to change their wet "nappies".  Then the nurses take them and line them up on pots.  Little Noella was crying on the pot, so I was rubbing her back and singing "Twinkle twinkle".  She quieted down and another one across the room started in - so I moved over to her.  Meanwhile, Noella started in again.  I looked over and little Lucy had scooted her pot over next to Noella and was rubbing her shoulder and patting her head.  Another child came over and tried to hit Noella and Licy put her hand out to protect.  Lucy is a twin and has braces on both her feet.  I was saying to Noella "You're ok"  And then Lucy started to say "You're ok".  I really got tears in my eyes over that and said to Lucy "Mimi Kupendo we we"  I love you.  These kids touch my heart - you would love them too.

Many of these kids are ones whose mother has died and father cannot care for them.  they drop them off at the orphanage.  Sometimes they have a contract to take them back when they are older but sometimes they never show up and then the kids are adopted.  Most of the kids are under 8 years - the older ones go to school.  There is one little girl who is 12 who has AIDs.  She will never be adopted because no one will want her and she will die within a year or 2.  She does go to school though which is nice...  Others have no parents and are immediately eligible for adoption.  Unfortunately no one but a Tanzanian resident can adopt. 

The kid's clothes are kind of interesting.  There was a little one in pink pants and shirt - I asked the nurse what her name was and she told me "HIS name is Moody"  Then I realized that all girls are in dresses and boys are in pants - even if they are girl colors.  And since the clothes are all donated -a many from North America or Eurpoe, you will see little girls wearing a pink satin "Easter" dress - probably worn once by a little American girl for a special occasion and now worn by a little African girl to play in the dirt. 

As far as other activities in our off time, CCS has kept us busy with Swahili lessons, cultural lessons and tours.  We went by van to tour Moshi - the larger neighboring village.  We went into a grocery store and bought a few treats.  The ladies at the counter were so sweet and patient with us with our lack of understanding of the Schilling and our poor Swahili.  most speak some English which helps.

There is a young woman named Jesca - age 19 who has been oming over and helping translate for some of us at her placement.  She is a beautiful sweetheart.  she has her hair very close cropped, a lovely, heart shaped face and a gentle spirit.  She has finished through Form 4 secondary school and has taken national exams to move into Form 5 which is higher secondary school.  She is very bright. She and I have bonded - she is my Tanzanian daughter.  She told me that she will be my Valentine this year.  She has invited me to go with her and her family to the little Catholic church in Rau.  She took us all shopping yesterday in the market.  This is an area I would not be comfortable going alone.  Some of us women wanted to buy cloth to have a kanga (a wrap skirt which has a saying on the bottom to send a message for the day -  mine says "All you need will be provided") Anyway, she negotiated a good price with us.  It kind of makes me feel badly that we rich Americans are trying to get a low price, but I was told by a Tanzanian that is an insult if you do no try to bargain.  So, I got cloth for a conga and a skirt for $6.50.  Then we will take it to Mama Nelson, a tailor who lives across the road who will sew them for us.  Jesca told us to watch our purses because "There are cruel people and they will steal your money".

Mama is the title to give a woman who is older than ones self.  I get called mama a lot - nice.  Mama Nelson lives across the road in a small stucco home.  We visited her last Sun.  she said "Karibou"  - you are always welcome here".  Her 2 daughters Irene and Hosseanna showed us the baby goats and their cow.  They are very amused with us that we were holding and fussing over an animal.  Animals are just food to them.  I also found out that the culprit rooster who thinks that 2 AM is a Godly hour to awaken the neighborhood lives there.  There are chickens and roosters walking all over the yards and roads - as well as goats.

Rau, where we are staying is a quiet, rural village.  There are always people out walking and very few cars.  The roads are narrow paths of bumpy, red dirt.  They are lined with houses which are enclosed with stucco fences covered with Mimosa - beautiful pink flowering plants covered with thorns.  To keep out the thieves.  In the morning and at noon there are many children walking to school with their uniforms, back packs and large water jugs.  They either carry them or put them on their heads.  Each school has a different uniform and it is really fun to see the different ones.  My favorite is the red dresses with the yellow collar and red stripped socks.  The older kids in secondary school have started learning English.  They love so greet us and show off their English.  They will say "What is your name?"  Or in the afternoon, they may say "Good morning".  I hhave given up on correcting them on their afternoon, versus morning versus evening.  They are having fun greeting us and their teachers will eventually teach them these greetings.  They love us Mzungu.  The other day I went running with two other volunteers.  the kids were running along side us - holding our hands.  Very cute.

Moshi, the bigger village is a whole different scene.  It is crawling with cars and Dahla-dahals.  They are crazy drivers and as a pedestrian you need to make sure you are out of their way.  There also crowds of people walking the streets.  The women do dress just as you would imagine - conga wraps or colorful shirts and blouses and head wraps.  Some also wear western clothing.  The outdoor market is loud and they come out with their products in hand saying Mama, mama or Mzungu.  it is almost overwhelming.   

Today we asked to be dropped off in Moshi to eat and check e-mail and look around town.  After being at the orphanage, I am pee soaked and my hair is wild.  The kids pulled on my bangs and my barrette and rubbed baby food in it.  And the best thing is - I really don't care and neither does anyone else.

I have made a few Tanzanian friends - the staff for CCS is great.  Mama Grace - our house mom, Mama Judith who is in charge of the grounds - she looks like Maya Angelou.  she has a kindness about her.  Mama Grace is spunky and very funny.

We are going to try to go on safari this weekend.  We may pay for Jessica to come with us as a translator, but mainly because she has never been and it would be a huge thrill for her.

We may also run in the Mt Kili marathon - they have a 5 and 10 K.  Think it would be an experience and also want the t-shirt.  costs $3.00 to enter.

There is a little outdoor bar in our neighborhood called Deos.  We go almost every night and have one 70 Cent Kilimanjaro beer.  We have to be in at 11:00 and are usually ready for bed anyway. 

Well, this is probably enough for now.  I hope you are all well and having a good time in life.

Kwaheri - good bye and Mi mi Kupendo We We - I love you!

Kristy

 Entertaining the kids during potty time.

Journal Feb 12

Field Trip

This morning several other volunteers, Anna, Sonja and I went with some local CCS volunteers, Jessica (she is the one I have mentioned before who is 19 and my Tanzanian daughter – very sweet), Antone and John who are in their 20s and are also local volunteers in our program.  Anton is Denzel handsome and very intelligent.  We paid the two guys to escort us to Arusha National Park.  They had a friend who drove us in a range rover with a sun roof (he is in the tourism business).  It was about an hour drive and we saw crowds of people going to Sat. market to buy and sell.

Once we got the park, Hans – the driver put up the sun roof and we stood on our seats to get a better view.  We saw giraffes walking across the road, Zebras (2 of which were in the process of making baby zebras), water buffalo, monkeys swinging from trees.  This is "au natural"  - they were just chillin.

Once we got further in the park, we got out to take a hiking safari.  There were several rangers who had these old rifles.  I was wondering if we tourists really get that unruly, but as it turned out, it was in case the wart hogs or water buffalo decided to charge us. 

The hike was absolutely incredible.  I was within kissing, no spitting, no, I have to be honest, I was within stone throwing distance from a giraffe.  Also we saw a beautiful waterfall and were in the foot hills of Mt Meru.  Anna got her foot stuck knee deep in a bog and the guys were pulling on her which made it worse and coupled with her laughing, it took a while  to free her.  Then much to her chagrin, the well meaning guide took her water bottle and poured it over her shoe to wash it, then re-filled it with the giardia infested water from the stream.  The scenery was beautiful and it was amazing to see these animals just in their natural habitat.

After the hike, we went into the market in Arusha and did a little souvenir shopping.  This is the first time I have seen the Massai women.  This tribe has their own land, own customs and own style of dress. These are the ones whose ear lobes are the only thing drooping more than their boobs.  Also, they wear the beaded neck collars and some have tattoos on their faces.  We are going to visit them in their village in a couple of weeks.  They have natural healers, so if any of you want any natural medicines, I think I can buy them  - let me know.

A visitor in my room….

When we returned home, I went into my room and suddenly saw a lizard dart from behind the window.  And true to prissy white woman form, I screamed and people came running including the night watchman.  He was especially amused by my response.  Now granted, this lizard was just a little fellow, but the thought of waking up with him staring at me from the other side of my netting was too much for me to take.  So, I communicated to the watchman the help me get him out of the room, but without killing him.  This required both of us chasing him around with brooms until we could guide him out the door.  Next time, I'll just let him board with me.  I wound up having the best night's sleep ever because of my roommates leaving, I have scored the bottom bunk and Dana, the physician left me her fan – huge score on that one.  The only time I woke up was when the Mosque started their prayers over the PA on their roof at 4 AM.  But, I just put in my ear plugs and went back to sleep  - didn't even hear the rooster or the "marriage of the dogs" (as Tanzanians put it) that normally takes place every night.

Journal  - Feb 13

In Africa, God does not hurry……

First I have to say that I have been treated as a queen today.  My day started with Jesca walking to escort another volunteer, Anna and me for 8:00 mass.  We walked along these narrow red dirt paths for about a mile and half.  Being here is a little like being in the country, but there are a lot of homes with varying sized "lots".  Some have an acre or so and others less. Every home has a garden/field.  Right now they are planting maize and I have heard that in May, the maize is several feet high and it's harder to find your way places because the landmarks are not visible.  There are no street names and really, many of these cannot really be defined as streets.  Tanzanians give directions in terms of landmarks.  Turn at the grocery store or the white house with the green door.

Jessica was scheduled to pick us up at 7:30 AM.  Now you have to realize that "bongos" - the locals do not operate in the same way when it comes to time.  Tanzanians are never late, they are merely delayed.  So, Jessica picked us up around 7:50 which suited me fine because as you know, I operate more naturally on Tanzanian time than I do "muzungu" (white people) time.  If there is an event that you really need to be punctual, we say "meet me at 7:30 – muzungu time". Then the person knows they have to come at exactly the right time – well sort of anyway.

So, since church was a good 20-30 minute walk – because Tanzanians do not walk fast (I could have covered it in 15 min), we arrived at church around 8:20.  But, "hakuna matata" – no worries, the priest did not arrive until 8:40. Now I want to describe this church.  It is next to a cornfield and you can hear a cow lowing along with the choir from to time – she added a nice base tone to the music. Anyway, we heard the church before we saw it.  The choir was singing a lovely African hymn.  And, this hymn lasted about 20 minutes – all the songs were very long- but beautiful.   The church was just a roof with no walls and lots of benches and a dirt floor.  It was packed with around 400 people.  The children do not sit with the adults, but play in the dirt at the back of church.  The church is only about a year old, so they are still trying to get enough money to build walls and buy more benches.  There is a pile of cement bricks sitting just outside the church and when it grows enough, they will start to build walls.  We did not have a bench and we told Jessica we were fine standing, but she went to a nearby house borrowed a bench.  She put it down and wiped the dust off with her bandana.  She so delighted to have us there and said, "It is amazing you are here". 

The apparel is part of the experience.  Everyone wears their best clothes.  For some, their clothes are a very nice skirt and blouse, for others, it is a well-worn conga with more than one hole in it.  A few of the young girls, including Jessica wear more western clothing. The little girls wore frilly little dresses, many you can tell have been passed down many times over, but they are the best they have.  I did notice there were not nearly as many men compared with women and children.  Some of the men were in the area at the back of the church – probably to allow the women to sit.

Once the priest arrived, mass officially started.  The altar was a wooden platform with four poles which were about ten feet tall. A white cloth with lace at the top was draped  on three sides of the altar and attached to the poles.  It was decorated with boughs of fake flowers, and there were some orange and white crochet lace doilies hanging in a few spots.  There were four altar boys dressed in white gowns.  Mass lasted until around 10:00.  Can you imagine 400 Americans wearing no antiperspirant, sitting on hard benches in 86 degree weather, packed together shoulder to shoulder for that length of time without inciting a riot?

The music was absolutely beautiful I really enjoyed it. Of course mass was in Swalili so I only understood a few words.  And just like in America, they had a second offering collection.  I was more than happy to contribute.  It was a wonderful experinece and again it struck me how happy these people are with so little and such hard lives.  It's the small things in life that count for them.  But really the big things if you think about it; friends, hospitality, family and faith. 

After mass, we met the priest and he invited us to the rectory on Thursday.  The Tanazinian men remind me of that guy who sings "You put the lime in the coconut…even though I think that guy is Jamaican). They have such a joyful way about them and just a great sense of humor too.

After mass the children all came in and sat down for a children's mass.  We said habari – hello to them and they were giggling at us and so excited to see us – we were the only white people there. 

The honored guests….

When we were finished socializing, we walked to Jessica's house.  I would not be able to walk to any of these places on my even if there was a cold dish of chocolate ice cream awaiting me.  And this is not so much due to my challenge with direction, but the fact that unless you live here, it just a tangle of paths, fields and trails. 

Jessica's house is a very nice one in terms of Tanzania and apparently her family is considered wealthy.  It is a stucco building with three windows in the front.  The windows are decorated a white frilly metal latticework.  The yard is mostly the hard red dirt.  We went around the back of the house to go inside.  In the back of the house are the animal pens.  They have four cows, around 12 pigs, and lots of chickens.  All of the chicken here is free range.  They also have a dog and Anna was talking to it and petting it. Jessica was laughing about that. She said, "In America you, treat your dogs as babies.  For us – only watchdog to keep out thieves."

Her mama, Digna and her sister and cousin were outside preparing our lunch.  They were so happy to see us and welcomed us over and over.  I think I mentioned before that people are honored to have guests in their home and especially ones who are not local.  I've never in my life felt so honored and welcome in any place.  They do not have a kitchen, they do all the cooking outside over a fire.  They were busy chopping vegetables and fruit.

While we waited for lunch, - they would not hear of us helping at all – we went next door to Jessica's grandfather's home.  Her grandfather is dead – possibly due to the fact the he had 2 wives.  Yes, here it is legal to have more than one wife, but from what I can tell, most only have one – especially if they are Christian. 

I have heard that Jessica's family is considered wealthy.  Inside their house, there is a living room with upholsted furniture with wooden arms and legs and a cement rather than dirt floor.  There is a sheet of linoleum that is laid down over the middle of the room – kind of like an area rug..  In the middle of the room was a coffee table, which is what we used to eat on.  That was the only room I saw.    Jessica told us that she has 2 younger brothers and two sisters.  Her older sister is at University and plans to become a teacher.  She has a three-year-old girl named Irene who lives with Jessica's family. By the way, all these names such as Irene, Jessica are baptism names.  They all have African names too.  Jessica sleeps in a tiny room with at least 4 other women and girls.

Also living with the family is her father Charles, and mother Digna.  They also take care of a young woman named Flora whose mother died when she was a little girl and was adopted by this family.  Flora has a little boy named Kevin and her husband left her right after she had her baby.  They have 14 people in all living in this house.  They also have a houseboy and a maid.  Jessica's family also takes care of several relatives financially and may not be able to send Jessica to her final 2 years of school called form 5 and form 6. It costs $120.00 a year.  We volunteers want to help her because she is such a bright, sweet person.  She wants to become a lawyer because "There is bribes in the government and I want to minimize".  Also, she told me she hurts for the women and children and wants to work to improve their conditions.  If she can get the money for form 5 and 6, Government University is free.

As we were waiting for lunch, Jessica brought in a TV – about a 19-inch.  It took awhile for them to get it plugged in properly and working, but finally got it turned on.  I was not really excited about it, but it actually turned out to be very entertaining.  They can only get one channel.  The program was a Nigerian soap opera  which was dubbed with English.  It was the worst acting I have ever seen coupled with the mismatched effect of the speech patterns.  Then the show Perfect Strangers was on.  That was kind of surreal, sitting in Africa and hearing the combination of  American TV, chicken, cow and goat sounds mingling together.  What an experience.

After we were served chai (which is the African word for tea – did you know that?)  The tea is hot milk from their cow, a spicy tea mixture and sugar – delicious.  Digna cooks for our organization so she understands about our muzungu digestive systems. Lunch was chopped mangos (they are in season), tomatoes, cucumbers and oranges.  We were served a delicious rice dish with carrots, potatoes, onions and beef chunks.  Also something that looked and tasted likes cooked spinach but they had another name for it.  They insisted on dishing up another helping for us and even though it was really good, I was full.  But I stuffed it down because the last thing I wanted to do was waste already scarce food that they were so gracious to serve us. 

After they cleared the dishes – and again would not allow us to help – mama Digna brought out a platter with several bottles of soda pop – orange, lemon lime and Pepsi. She was delighted to serve this to us and so I drank a warm, sugary orange soda whether I wanted to or not.

I have realized that I cannot be in a hurry at all when living in Tanzania.  By the time lunch was over, it was around 3:00 and I noticed I was feeling ansey.  But we were the afternoon's entertainment and they were in no hurry for us to leave.  And of course they must have a lot of work to do, but people are more important than tasks.  Hmmmm – food for thought.  There were several small kids at lunch and they sang us a cute African song with actions – very shyly and quietly as we have all seen kids do.  Then we taught the kids, along with mama Digna the chicken dance.  Mama Digna really got a kick out if that and we wound up repeating it many times for her benefit. She had a conga wrapped over her dress and lost it sometime during the dance.  We decided that it means you had a good time if you lose your conga.

A good nap…….

After lunch and a thirty-minute goodbye we had an entourage to escort us home. That was followed by many more thank yous, your welcomes and promises to meet again soon.

When I got back to the compound, I was exhausted.  I took a two-hour nap.  It was the best nap I have ever had.  When I woke up, four of the volunteers came back from a weekend safari.  They were sun burned and covered in red road dust.  I think another group is going next weekend and I plan to go along then.  I was glad to have a less busy day today – well sort of.

Training for the Moshi 5 K race….

 Then a group of us decided to go for a run.  The Moshi race is in 2 weekends. Now running here is totally different from home.  First, it is probably 88 degrees, next, the roads are treacherous with ruts, potholes, rocks and all kinds of people.  The other thing is you cannot just get into a quiet zone and block out the rest of the world.  This is because you must greet each and every person you encounter.  This requires looking around so you don't miss anyone, while looking for the least hazardous area of the road to navigate.  It feels like running through the woods, except instead of evergreens, maples, sumac and dogwoods, there are banana trees, acacia trees, and flowering mimosas interspersed with houses, gardens, animal pens, little stores and businesses and of course chickens, donkeys and goats along the road.

Actually, I must digress here. I was running the other day with another volunteer, Lindsey.  As we went along, people would sometimes say "pole" which means sorry and Lindsey would say "Asante" thank you. I couldn't understand this but she explained that here, people say sorry if it looks as if a person is working hard - for example carrying a heavy load.  So, here we were feeling good, looking strong and we were actually invoking pity.  A little ego deflating. Also, while I was running, a 10-year-old boy ran along side me dribbeling a deflated, flat old soccer ball. He started passing it to me.  Somehow an angel took over my feet and I was able to summon my old meager soccer skills, watch for ruts, run and pass the ball back and forth while he coached me in Swahili.  Later I was joined by a pair of skipping, giggling little girls and did a couple blocks of skipping and hand holding with them.  Yes, running here is a different and enjoyable experience. 

Passing the evening…..

After the run I went inside our little living room area. It has a tile floor, which worked pretty well for yoga. I did a little of that and heard the bell for dinner.  Tonight, we had a breaded, fried eggplant, mashed potatoes, a green bean/carrot mix, stringy beef and mango.  Meals are served in an outdoor courtyard in the center of the compound and are completely organic.  It feels like "nice" camping.  You can always smell a fire burning because that is how people cook their food.

Now I am sitting at the table in the courtyard, typing my journal.  It is a beautiful night and really just enjoying being outside.  I spend most of my time outside if I can.  When the rains start in a couple of weeks, that will be a different story.  Oh and another thing about nights here.  I don't know if it has to do with our location in the universe or the fact that there are no streetlights here, but the stars are absolutely incredible.  I swear there are more of them here and they are brighter.  It almost looks like I am sitting in a planetarium and viewing them.  I hear crickets, a bird singing and an occasional dog barking, but otherwise it is very quiet and peaceful.

So that is it for now.  I hope you are doing well and feeling healthy.

I may play my (actually Shre bear's) flute and then I am going to hop into my mosquito net and go to sleep. Work tomorrow.

 Lala Salama…….Sleep safely

Journal Feb 14 – Happy V-day!

A day's work….

I awoke at 7:00, had breakfast and boarded the van for work.  We manage to fit anywhere form 12-16 people in this 10 passenger van.  Along with the CCs volunteers, there are usually a few additional people going with us.  The ride is extremely hot, skin to skin sticky, dusty and bumpy.  I am the last to get dropped off at the orphanage.  When I got there this morning, as usual, the kids had heard the van and were crowding around for Julie (another volunteer) and I go get out.  Then they swarm us, some want to be held, some want us to go play and some just bury their head in between my knees and wipe their noses on my skirt.  This definitely makes me feel needed.

I spent some time talking to Sister Emaculatta about the possibility of me teaching a class to the young "nurses" about how to handle, nurture, discipline and potty train the kids.  She told me that I can help to teach these girls and they may have a lasting impact on the quality of care there.  She also showed me more of the grounds.  They have cows, but due to lack of rain and lack of grass so not get enough milk.  They have to mix the cows milk with powdered.  They also have chickens, pigs, and a vegetable garden.  Sister told me that they do not have any financial support on an ongoing basis.  It is all on donations.  Since the Tsunami, donations have dwindled due to recourses going over there.  They need clothes, shoes, "nappies for the babies, and toys.  If anyone has any ideas on how to get support on an ongoing bases, let me know.

Then I went into the toddler kid's room and bounced a couple of little ones on my lap.  Then came in from the playground with the kids to wash hands, put the kids on the pot and change pants if needed.  Then it was morning milk.  After that, we have to stay in because the sun is too strong.  That is the hardest part of the day because the kids are getting hungry and there are only a few toys in this room.  The nurses bring in the plastic pots and have the kids taking turns peeing.  Unfortunately, this is only marginally successful and there are usually a minimum of 2-3 puddles on the floor.  Today, I was holding Damian and Philipo on my lap and when I got up, there was pee dripping off my skirt, down my leg and on to the floor – and I was pretty sure it was not mine.  The nurses got me a towel and soap and one of the women who worked there insisted on giving me a pair of her pants to wear for the day.  I was grateful.  I played catch and soccer with 3 boys at once and then it was time for lunch.  I fed Damian who is disabled and cannot feed himself.  He is very sweet, is cross eyed and loves to cuddle.  So yes, there are challenges, but I feel these kids need me there and I hope to make a difference.

After work, I went to Carina's, a little grocery store.  The stores here don't have much because people grow their own food and don't need to buy much.  But I bought a jar of Nutella – a hazelnut spread which is the most sinfully delicious thing on earth.  It is my v-day gift to my fellow volunteers.  Then I came to Kebo House which is a little restaurant - coffee - internet café.   Later today we have Swahili lessons. 

Journal Feb 15^th

Last night – VD celebration…

I was aware that it was Valentine’s day, but was not enthused really for my Valentine was not with me here.  Only in my heart.  So, to my surprise, Andrew and John, who are Georgetown University students and call me mom, invited all the women of the house out to dinner.  Nicola, y 18 year old roommate insisted on dressing me up (she calls me mom also) and I agreed thinking, “Well, if I look like a fool, no one will even notice or care”.  But actually, she had a very cute pair of black pants and shirt and even shoes for me to borrow that I would love to own.  It was nice to clean up and feel civilized for a night even though I have enjoyed not fussing with all that. 

We went to the roof of the Kandaroka Hotel and had a full view of snow capped and really, really tall Mt Kili.  It was amazing.  We had wine, but the server did not know how to open it and Andrew had to use the corkscrew from his Swiss Army knife to dig it out.  Those things really are handy aren’t they – life saving sometimes.  We ordered five dishes to share and two and half-hours later, the dinner had not come and Anna and I had to leave because I was expecting a call from Gerry.  I had a marathon bar and Pringles for dinner.  When the rest came home they told us they did not get what they ordered and it was cold.  But, we all said it was a really fun night and an African experience.

Also, on VD, the most touching thing happened.  Digna, the woman who had us over for lunch on Sunday gave me a Valentine’s present.  It was a clear plastic case and in it was a little glass swan that said I love you Valentine. So sweet.  I bought everyone a group gift :Nutella”.  If , you don’t know, Nutella is a chocolate hazelnut cream that tastes good spread over everything on earth  - and I mean everything.  Find me something that does not taste exquisite with Nutella and I’ll eat it, because I won’t believe it.

The day…

Today was actually uneventful considering I am living in a third world country without my family and friends.  I really miss everyone, but I feel I am doing some good here and I am enjoying my time. I have also really enjoyed the other volunteers.  It is one of those situations where I would probably not have picked them out or come together with them on my own, but when thrown together, find I really am happy to know them. 

I am the oldest of everyone here by ten years.  Next in line is Anna who is a 37 year cellist and base player from Atlanta, who also teaches these instruments and restores bows.  She is really a character and she is as kind and generous a person can be.  The next oldest is Julie who is a cosmetologist and Mormon from Salt Lake and she works at the orphanage with me.  She is also really sweet and she is totally nuts and cracks us all up.  There are several college students who are using this as their study abroad experience.  They are all extremely smart and also really nice and fun to be with.  Nicola is my 18-year-old roommate and is from San Diego. She is a competitive horse jumper – not the proper terminology – and is going to India for 4 weeks after this to volunteer.  Another noteworthy person is Sonja. She was delayed in arriving in Tanzania because she is a Philly Eagles cheerleader and was in the Super Bowl. She arrived three days later than the rest of us. I, in dismay was picturing a dizzy young blonde and much to my surprise and delight, she is a very intelligent, mature and fun person.  Enough so that I don’t hate her because she looks perfect and beautiful with no makeup and a pair of sweats.  She is a black American (she prefers not to be called African American because really most black people could come from one of several areas which had a slave trade) Sonja is a grad student in public health.

Okay, so that is the other volunteers in a nutshell.  Today I was at the orphanage for work and it was a good day because I had fun with the kids and no one peed on me today.   I brought out the view master I brought with me and those kids can look endlessly at the pictures – some are naming what they say in Swalili which I could listen to endlessly.  It is so cute when kids speak Swahili.  I also played soccer with Estomenie and a little girl named Anna, who preferred throwing to kicking, so we switched to that.  Also, there is a girl named Lillian who is teaching me to count to 10 in Swahili and I am teaching her to do so in English.  She is a very smart little girl with intense eyes.  She was also the last to warm up to me, but she I realized she likes to sing and count rather than be cuddled, we have gotten along famously.

 Also, I am getting a plan together for guidelines on teaching the young nurses how to take care of children.  Also, I want to find some ways to get some steady funding for this orphanage.  They are run by the Precious Blood Sisters and they rely solely on donations which have become scarce.  There are many people back home who’ve offered support here and I told them I would find out what was needed and let them know.  Well, I think this is a definitely worthy cause and it is unique because they have no way of generating revenue.  I don’t know how we could get a group of toddlers to do something which would earn steady income (if only pee could marketed in a constructive way).

After lunch, we went to town to change dollars into schooling.  The money thing is really weird here.  1,000 Schooling is equivalent to one dollar.  So, I have to be careful because it does not feel like real money – more like monopoly money and I don’t want to spend it as such or I may have to work until I’m 80 to make up for my spending in Africa. 

We returned to town for Swahili lessons with our teacher Hedwig.  Some of these names really crack me up.  Hedwig is a 50-year-old teacher who is very intelligent and a great sense of humor.  Good thing too, because we have been a little silly at our lessons and she has dealt with it and managed to teaches a few things in the process.  Swahili is easy in the sense that it sounds like it is written in most cases – nothing tricky. The only part for me is just memorizing and figuring out pronouns, etc.  I figure if I get the basics and a word vocabulary, I will be doing well.

After that, John wanted to go running and I had been shown a really nice route by another volunteer and he wanted me to show him.  Unfortunately, I missed a key turn and we went about a mile down the road the wrong way before I confessed that this was not at all familiar.  We turned around and were heading back and it was starting to get dark.  I would have been uncomfortable had I been alone, but the problem is that the roads are so never the danger was in navigating that without an ankle turn. All of the sudden a man calls out “John”.  The person behind the voice was a young man who was a friend of John (Tanzanian Jonn) and Anton who are the local volunteers.  It is so funny that we have been here less than 2 weeks and randomly run into people we know.  That hardly ever happens to me even in cub foods on Maple Groove.  The guy’s name was Gabby and he insisted on escorting us all the way back to CCS.  People are so ready and able to go out of their way at any time, no matter what they are doing to help someone out.

After we arrived home, dinner was in progress and we were just in time. Tonight it was a beef and gravy, guacamole, potatoes, cooked spinach and fresh fruit.  I can’t believe it, but I think I am gaining weight in a third world country.  The food is so good and I am so hungry when mealtime comes around. After dinner, I did some laundry.  We have a basin in our bathroom that we hand wash our clothes and hang dry. Washers and dryers are unheard of here.

So now I am sitting in the little living room with the windows open and writing my journal.  Tomorrow, we are missing work to go on a CCS sponsored field trip.  We will see the Chagga village – they are an indigenous tribe and hike a waterfall. If time allows, we will be able to go to the foot of Mt Kili.

Africa Journal # 4

 Today is Tues Feb 21

I am finally getting around to writing my journal.  I have not had the opportunity to do so until tonight.  During each day, I tell myself "Oh, I have to remember this moment, or I have to remember this conversation."  And there are hundreds of these every day, so it is nearly impossible to recall all of them. But, I will give it my best.

Wed Feb 16th Field Trip

Today, CCS planned a trip for all the volunteers so we all played hooky from our jobs.  We loaded into the van as usual, shoulder to shoulder and took off.  Our first destination was a local market.  We were instructed to go into the market, interact, buy items if we wished, but not to take pictures.  This market was not for tourists, but for locals (bongos) to get the items needed for their daily living and we didn't want to make them feel they were on display.  But I have to say, this was a vivid picture and would have made a wonderful photo.  The market was outdoors and was set up in a wide-open space.   All of the goods were spread out on the ground on colorful cloths. There were fruits and vegetables, clothing such as shoes, pants, shirts, etc and cloth to make dresses, etc.  It was a crowded, moving swarm of color and sound with Tanzanians of all ages, doing their business.  It was difficult to make my way through the flood.  The noise level was also high due to people greeting one another and bartering, sometimes with much vigor. 

 My bartering skills…

I decided to buy some cloth, which was a small challenge due to my rather meager Swahili vocabulary.  But, I gave it my best.  "Shi linge gapi? Or "How much is it?" And once I got a response, I had to count aloud on my fingers in Swahili (moja, tatoo, mbelie, nne, tisa – and that's as far as I can remember) verify that I understood the number correctly.  If I got stuck and I usually get stuck on the number five for some reason, they would laugh with me and then help me by counting to ten with me in Swahili.  So, after I verified the asking price, it was time to negotiate.  As I have probably mentioned before, it is considered an insult not to barter.  During this process, it is important to let them know that you are not a tourist, but living in the country, so the next thing to say is "Punguzi bei" which means "give me the local price".  When I said that, the woman with whom I was negotiating with was tickled that I knew that term, laughed and gave me a high five, then refused to lower her price.  This went on for a while, and finally she came down a little.  So, I caved and gave her my mzungu money at a "non-local" price.

 We stopped at a blacksmith on our way to the Chagga village (one of the two dominant tribes in the area).  I was amazed by the fact that these men were squatting all day in front of a fire in 90-degree weather, working very hard and hardly sweating.  I think we were sweating more than they were.

After the market, we went to a Chagga cave.  There are two major tribes in the area; the Chagga and the Massai.  In the 1700 – 1800 era, these two tribes were in war. Our tour guide, Folgence told us they fought over two things "Cows and women."  The war apparently ended sometime in the 1980s (I'll have to verify that time frame) when the German missionaries came over.

 But during the wars, the Chaggas built caves in which to hide when they felt they were in danger. The cave entrance was basically a ten-foot drop and we had to use a ladder to descend.  Once inside, it was pitch black and we could not stand up.  There was a guide awaiting us at the floor of the cave with a flashlight so we could finally see.  And had we been able so see better, we would have realized that the floor of the cave was covered in bat dung.  We had to travel down a tunnel using the crab walk to get to the "kitchen" area.  This consisted of a shelf for storing utensils and food, a fire pit and a "chimney".  The chimney just appeared as a hole in the wall, but what we could not see was that it was several hundred feet long.  It ended in the Chagga's hut so if the enemy came and saw smoke, they would think it was coming from the fire, which they had built in the hut. 

 These caves were dug by the women and children and took about 8-10 years to complete.  They started digging by the river so they could haul the dirt into the river and not are discovered due the presence of large dirt mounds.  The tunnel to the cave was at least a hundred feet long.  The cave also contained sleeping quarters and a nifty little area to store the dead bodies of the enemy until there was an opportune time to take them to an area where their tribesmen could discover them.

 After the cave, we went into a Chagga village. These round homes are made of branches, grass and mud.  Inside, it was very dark, except the embers of the fire from the inhabitant's breakfast.  There was an indentation  - shelf like area with a straw mat for sleeping, an area for livestock (they bring them every night) and an "attic" to store wood during the rainy season and to store extra food such as bananas.  There were several of these homes with people currently living there.  Very different than the homes I have been seeing in my little village.  Also, each family's property is marked by a row of totem plants which not only act as a natural divider of their lots, but also they are a sacred plant to the Chagga people.  It is against the law to chop one down. 

 After visiting the village, we had a box lunch and then hiked down to Marangoo Waterfall.  This hike was very steep, but filled with beautiful green trees and foliage.  It ended at a river with a huge waterfall and pond which descends from Mt Kili. I was so hot by then that even though I didn't have a swimsuit, I went in with my clothes on.  The water was shockingly cold, but totally worth it.  There were about four local boys, swimming in their underwear.  They scurried effortlessly up the side of the waterfall and jumped once they were about half way up – about twenty feet.  A couple of our volunteers climbed cautiously and slowly up – and these boys were terribly amused to see these Mzungu having such trouble with task that is as effortless as walking to them.  I wondered if these boys had any idea how beautiful and fabulous their playground was.

 African Disco

Although we were exhausted and sunburned, we went into Moshi after dinner to Pub Alberto.  We walked in the door and the five of us raised the number of patrons by about 50%.  We had a beer, did group dancing and were home by curfew – 11:00.  By ten-thirty, there were a few more people at the disco – all men except a fifty-year-old white guy with two hookers. That guy was very inebriated and was all over the two women – ick -  pathetic. Also, all the men were dancing together.   An interesting thing in Tanzanian culture – it is a common sight to see two men – of any age holding hands in friendship.  Also, I have had several people – men and women alike walk with me and hold my hand.  The thing that is never seen in public is romantic affection between men and women.  That is taboo and is only for in the privacy of the home.

Thursday Feb 17^th

 A visit to the rectory

Dahala-dahla adventure…

After lunch, Jessica and I were invited to go to the rectory to meet the parish priest.  We walked about a half-mile down the road to catch the dahla-dahla (the public transport van)  I think I have mentioned this before, but the definition of dahla-dahla is "never too full for one more".  There is no schedule for these, so Jessica informed me that we might have to wait one or two hours.  We sat down at a small outdoor café and waited in the shade.   At one point Jessica asked one of the women working at the café when they thought the next one could come. She said it would not be too long.  I asked Jessica how this woman knew this and Jessica said that they watch all day and just have a sense for when the next one for a certain direction will come. And thankfully, it was true.  About twenty minutes later up pulled the van, packed to the hilt, but of course with room for two more.  When we got in, Jessica handed our water bottles to woman who sitting on the front seat. 

These people have a very cooperative system for entering, exiting and riding in the van. We stood up and it was so packed that I had to turn my feet at a certain angle so I could fit.  And when someone exits the van, a few people have to hop out and the person leaving points out where their parcels are in the overhead bins. Someone takes out the packages, hands them out the window or down the line to reach the owner.  Then, as the van takes off, the people still outside it run along side it and jump on.  Once I had to step out and I made sure I got right back on because I was unsure of my ability to time the run and jump just right and did not want to end up under the tire as a "dahla-dahla cake".

We got off at a stop near the parish and walked a block or so to the church.  This church was an older, more established building than the one I visited a couple of weeks ago, complete with roof, walls and even artwork.  It was beautiful.  Jessica asked an older gentleman whose name was Alphonzo if Father Joseph was in.  He held my hand and walked me to the rectory. 

 Father Joseph told us he was glad we had come and that in fact, he had almost forgotten we were coming. He is a jovial man in his 40s.  He told us that he had already done one mass and a funeral and was headed to do another mass at another church. He has three churches he is in charge of.  I asked him if he had an associate and he explained that he did have an associate, but he was in the hospital dying of cancer.  Very sad. I asked if he would get a replacement for him and Father Joseph said that it would not be discussed while the associate was still living so he would not think he was unneeded.

 Father Joseph brought out warm bottles of sprite which I did not want to drink, but as I have mentioned before, it is important to Tanzanians to offer food or refreshments, so of course I accepted it and drank it down.  Oh how I miss ice.  He also had us sign a guest book.  That is another thing I have noticed.  In Tanzania, whenever you visit a public place or institution, they like to have you sign their book. I think they are proud to have all these guests.  Father Joseph's book was filled mostly with priests from Africa, Europe and the US. We had a nice visit and then he had to go so he could be "on time" for his next mass. For a man who is over worked and fatigued, he is a cheerful and gracious man.

I asked Jessica how far it would be to walk home and she said about 3 kilometers.  I was thinking that we cold walk that easier than we could wait of an indeterminate amount of time for the next dahla-dahla. So, we decided to hoof it.  It was kind of a hard walk, because of course the roads are filled with rocks and ruts and it was in the 90s for temp. As we walked, we met a lot of people and many of them wanted to talk to me because they don't see that many mzungu. It is kind of funny how the people here react to my Swahili.  It is with a combination of appreciation that I have put effort into learning and some amusement.  What typically happens is we start with basic greetings, then if they say something I don't understand I say "pole" (sorry)  kidogo (little) Swahili.  And they will smile in understanding.  Or sometimes they tell me what my reply should be.

 Mzungu know everything about everything…

We met an older lady on the road that day and went through this procedure.  Then when she realized that I didn't know any more Swahili, she said something to Jessica.  Jessica told me that she was encouraging me to keep practicing.  Then the woman and Jessica continued to have a long conversation.  Afterward, I asked Jessica what was said.  She told me that she had informed the woman I was from America and was working in the orphanage.  She said the woman said I was a good person for doing that.  Then the woman had told Jessica that she could not see to read small print anymore and wondered if I could help her. Jessica explained that people here think mzungu know everything about everything and I explained that of course that is not true at all.  A lot of Tanzanians think that mzungu are superior to them and that we are all rich. I am working to dispel the myth. 

 Going visiting…

As we continued on our journey, we passed the home of another older lady who turned out to be the second wife Jessica's grandfather.  She invited is into her home and wiped the bench us to sit.  She and Jessica had a long conversation before we left.  Jessica had asked her why she didn't visit their home as often and her grandmother explained that she has had trouble with the pressure (I think blood pressure) and rheumatism. 

 We got a little further down the road and I was thinking I really needed to get back to do some clothes washing and journaling, but I have realized that when you go visiting here, you cannot plan when you will return home.  People here can stop in at any house at any time – even a stranger.  They just say "hodi" which is the Swahili version of "yoo-hoo" and then go on in the door.

So as we continued on our way, we passed the shop and home of Mama Tunamaini who is Jessica's aunt and were invited in for a visit.  Also, Mama's younger sister, Lucy had a new baby and was staying with Mama T for two months to recover.  We went into the back bedroom to visit Lucy and her baby, Glory.  There were five other women and another baby (named Catherine – a very good name I think – she is a little doll too – just like another little Catherine I know).  They were all sitting in this tiny room which had only a bed and a table.  They were very welcoming to me and went into the living room to get a chair for me.  At that point I abandoned altogether the idea of when I would get back to CCS and decided to enjoy the moment.  I held the new little baby for a while until she got hungry. 

Lucy, the new mom had lost her first child.  She was having the baby at home (as they usually do), but she was having extreme pain and they brought her to the hospital. It turned out she had placenta previa and they tried to do a c-section, but the baby died just a few minutes before they could deliver her.  Lucy lost a lot of blood and almost died as well. This struck me because if she lived in America, that both mom and baby probably would have lived.  As we were leaving Mama Tunamaini's house they all said "Karibou, you are always welcome".  Again it strikes me how honored I feel whenever I am at someone's home.

 Honey Badger

That evening, CCS took us to the Honey Badger which is a cultural center for dinner, African drumming and dancing.  We sat at tables outside and outdoors and had a delicious meal of chicken, vegetables, cabbage, flat bread, watermelon and rice. 

The dancers came out to the tables and pulled us up on the stage with them to dance.  Now, these women have a special way of moving, especially their hips which they must learn from birth.  There was no way that any of us could come close to being able to dance like them. The only instruments they used were clapping, singing and drums.  We were joking that they were probably singing

 "These white people have no rhythm…hey oh hey oh…"

"It s fun to try to make them look really silly…hey oh hey oh." 

 We got a huge laugh out of Jessica over this and could never get her to tell us what they were really singing because she started laughing every time she tried.  We had fun trying to dance and when I exited the stage a woman who was at least 70 (who could really move by the way) kissed me on the cheek.  It is a Chagga tradition to kiss hello and goodbye on each cheek.  I am growing used to being kissed.

 I was sitting at the table with Mama Grace who is a staff member for CCS.  She previously worked for the peace corp.  She is a very interesting and bright woman with a great sense of humor.  She was confiding to me that her 17year old son has been invited by a previous volunteer to live in Minnesota with her and go to school.  Grace was worried about a number of things regarding this. She told me that she has known others who have done this and have lost their culture and dropped out of school. Then them come back to Tanzania in shame.  She also asked me about how much racial prejudice there was in the US.  I did my best to explain to her that yes, it exists, but that there are many people who are not racially bigoted as well.  Then we talked about the fact that it is always hard to let your kids go on their own.  We found common ground in that we are both moms who love and want the best for their kids.

 After dinner, the owner of Honey Badger, Mama Lucy came to our table.  I was telling her how much I like the food, which was a small mistake because she said "Oh you must go have some more." I said "Asante, nimeshiba."  (thanks, I am already full). But she didn't buy it, so I went back for a small helping and stuffed myself.  Lucy is another bright, funny woman whose kids are grown.  She invited Anna and me to come back to visit her this week and she said "Lunch is on me and I will lake you on a tour of the village."

 Friday Feb 18^th

 A good day at the orphanage

This was probably the best day I have had at the orphanage so far.  I am starting to get to know each of the kids and vice versa.  Also, I am getting to know the routine and the nurses.  Part of my strategy is to gain the trust of the nurses so they will listen to me when I tell them to make sure they are taking the kids to the bathroom, keeping them in dry pants, wiping their noses and not hitting them on the head, etc.  

 I have decided that since the nurses take care of their basic care, I will be less involved in that and spend more time giving them what they need individually.  This depends on the kid and the mood of the kid at the time.  It could be in the form of a hug, a song, a tickle, looking at books, counting or kicking a ball around.  Today, I took 4 of the older kids aside and we colored, drew shapes and played with the etch a sketch.  After that, I went to the toddler room and held them, sang and looked at baby animal books.  Then at milk time I helped hand out milk and take kids to the bathroom.  At lunch, I fed the little boy Baraca who is around 3 years and disabled.  The kids seemed to respond to the more individual attention and the nurses are getting friendlier with me.

 Sister Emaculatta took me on a more extensive tour of the orphanage.  They have about 8 cows, 4 pigs, chickens and a few goats.  She said that they do get milk from the cows, butt not enough, so they mix the cows milk with powdered milk.  They also have a vegetable garden and get most of the veggies they need from that.  The kids eat some kind of meat on Sundays, but the rest of their meals are a porridge mixed with beans, maize and vegetables. I asked her if they could use more cows and she said it wouldn't do any good because they don't have space for more cows to graze. 

 One of the CCS volunteers had given me a $100.00 donation which a friend from home had sent with her to use where she thought it was needed.  Sister had previously mentioned to me that right now their greatest need was shoes and nappies.  I asked her if she would want me to go out and buy these, or would she want to do it.  She told me that it would be better to give her the money because she would get a better price being a local and that she would show me what she bought.

 A Friday Afternoon….

After lunch I washed some of my clothes. There is a basin and a bucket in my "shower" with which to wash clothes.  You cannot imagine how much dirt is contained in these threads.  When I am rinsing them out, it looks like a red river running down the drain;  So, I have learned to soak them for at least 2 hours in detergent and water.  Then scrub vigorously, then scrub again.  My socks do not come out white no matter what I do, so I have just accepted that I am now wearing red-brown socks rather than white.  And my feet are now a permanent red-brown that no amount of scrubbing will rectify.  God help the person giving me my much needed double emergency pedicure when I get home.

 After laundry, I went running.  While I was running, I passed Mama Tunamanis and saw 2 other volunteers, Anna and Lindsey sitting outside and getting their hair braided.  Jessica was there too.  Here, if you see people you know, you must stop to visit. Even though you might be wringing wet with sweat and parched.  So, I walked up to visit and saw that Mama T and her daughter ware frying some bits of bread in a pan over the fire.  They offered me one and though my mouth was bone dry, I felt compelled to accept.  It turned out that these little things could rival Crispy Cream for their goodness.  In fact, Anna refers to them as "little bits of goodness".      

Dinner at El Ranchero

When I got back to CCS, there were 2 taxis waiting and it turns out that while I was running, all the other volunteers had decided we were all going out for dinner.  A taxi costs 2,000 shillings which is $2.00 US and we always pack as many people in as possible so we can each save 75 cents. So, I ran into my room to primp; wiped off with a towel, readjusted my ponytail and was ready to go.  I don't think I have ever gone from running and sweat soaked to ready for Friday night dinner out in so short a time.

We went to an outdoor restaurant called El Ranchero which served Indian food.  The food was very good and it only cost $6.00 including tip.  The place was packed with white tourists and it struck me how funny it looked to see this many white people in one place.

 Saturday Feb 19th

 Safari – adventure!!!!  Life without a seatbelt…

On Sat morning, Anna, Jessica and Sonja went on safari for the weekend.  We were picked up at 8:30.  Our first stop was the Shop rite in Arusha.  This as a large, modern supermarket.  We picked up our very important supply of snacks, chocolate and bottled water for the weekend – for safari does not mean 'to suffer'.  It felt like a little culture chock to be in this air conditioned store with isles with signs directing you to where the sweets and snacks, toiletries, produce, etc were located.  Arusha is a larger municipality that Moshi which is the village near where I live, so it has a few more westernized businesses. 

 After grocery shopping, we went over to the coffee shop called – now are you ready for this? – "Stigbucks"!!!  I had the first cappuccino I have had in weeks and really enjoyed every single drop of this precious and rare nectar of the Gods.

 Our first destination for safari was Lake Minjora.  But first, we stopped by the "lodge" where were to stay to drop off our bags and eat lunch.  Now this lodge was situated in a noisy little village with several shops and bars.  Since it was a weekend, it was hopping.  Also, there was a mosque nearby which were having their prayers over the PA system hourly.  I was happy to have brought along earplugs.  Our room consisted of a cement floor, a bench, two hard beds with hard pillows.  But, the sheets looked clean (the towels didn't, so luckily I had brought my own) and it was sufficient for our needs.  It did have a courtyard with grass – a rare sight in Tanzania, so we enjoyed sitting of the grass in the shade to rest.

After lunch, we went to Lake Manjora where there are many animals.  Our guide's name was Wilson and he was a friendly, nice guy who had a keen eye for spotting animals for us to see.  Whenever we would have to drive over an especially rough patch of road or through water on the road Wilson would say "Safari….adventure".  Anna and I were discussing the fact that since we have arrived in Tanzania, we have not worn a seatbelt.  Not because we are being daring, but because they are either not available or are broken.  I have already described the roads here.  And, I have described the fact that cars, bikes, pedestrians and animals are all doing a traffic dance to avoid catastrophe (and with surprising success I might add). 

 Digression warning…

Now I have to digress here and describe one taxi ride in particular which was rivaled any roller coaster in the US.  Most drivers are at least somewhat cautious due to the fact that these roads have the definite potential to demolish anything with wheels. But this particular driver had no such fears.  He drove so fast that my ass lost seat contact multiple times while my head made contact with the roof.  This driver went from the left side of the road to the right and back and forth, ironically trying to find the smoothest part of each stretch of road.  We counted at least four times he was driving in someone's yard – though no one seems to mind that.  So, although ride was the most memorable, most car trips here are somewhat adventurous.  So, now, our motto is "Living Life Without a Seatbelt." Digression finished.

 Meanwhile, on Safari, Wilson opened the sunroof so we could stand up and look around. Lots of sun, wind and dust. We saw baboons playing and grooming one another.  We say elephants, giraffes, zebras, water buffalo, wart hogs and guinea fowl.  The elephants were fun to watch.  One big guy was standing near a mud puddle and slopping wet mud over his back.  We watched them eat.  They use their trunks in a circular motion to wrap the long grass around, then pull it up and put it in their mouths.  Those trunks are surprisingly dexterous for how large and ungainly they look.

 When we returned to the lodge, we had dinner. The set-up is that each party also brings a cook.  Our cook's name was Fiti.  The lodge allows each cook to use the kitchen area to prepare food for their party.  We had a delicious rice dish, beef, fruit, sliced avocado, tea and bread. 

 Discussion of cultural problems over dinner…

At dinner, we were asking Jessica about the cultural problems here.  As far as HIV, she said that people who have HIV know it, and infect people anyway.  Also, she talked about the fact that there is no real education in schools.  They just say, "just don't do the bad things".  Also, she said that people don't feel comfortable buying condoms because then people would know what they were doing.  Also, Sonja, who is a volunteer in our program and is working with "White Orange" which is a program to education youth on HIV/AIDS.  Sonja said that people don't like to buy condoms because they are either colored or white and not a match for African skin. She heard a story about an AIDS educator having shown some youth how to use a condom and used a banana as a demonstration.  People in that program came up pregnant and they could not figure out why.  The educators finally found out that it was due to the fact that they were putting the condom on a banana and putting it beside the bed.  Not very effective.  Another problem is that people in the most poverty-stricken group really cannot afford condoms.  There is another myth that has gone around that Europeans have put the AIDs virus in condoms to purposely infect people. And, there is a problem with alcohol consumption in that group which of course causes promiscuity.  The biggest thing here in preventing the AIDs epidemic is EDUCATION!!!  Everyone here knows someone who is HIV positive. 

 After dinner, Wilson, Jessica and I took a walk.  We had an interesting conversation about life in The US.  Wilson was saying that he has heard that people can make a lot of money there.  I was talking about the fact that sometimes they can make a higher wage in America, but things cost so much more too.  I also talked about the fact that people are rushed and don't take the time to stop and visit on the streets.  And that people work long hours and suffer the effects of burn out.  We also discussed the extreme poverty here which is also tremendous stress here in Tanzanians and wondered which type of stress was worse.

 Wilson mentioned that he wanted to come visit America for a week.  I explained that it was an expensive, 24 hour long trip and that if he decided to visit, he should come for a longer time frame.

 Another interesting point we discussed is that Tanzanians do have an opinion on American politics.  Most of them don't like Mr. Bush and feel he is killing innocent people.  They acknowledged that there were horrible things being done to the people there, but that was true in other areas of the world and the US didn't get involved. 

 Sunday February 20th

Safari – the adventure continues…

Sunday morning we took off for the Massai village.  As I mentioned before, the Massai are one of two tribes who are prevalent in the area.  This tribe has remained most true to it's customs.  Most of them dress in their traditional clothing.  The men wear Massai cloth in a skirt-type wrap and another piece draped over their shoulder.  The colors are very vivid, reds, violet, blue and green are the most common colors.  Even the children dress in the traditional clothing.  As we drove toward the village, we could see little boys herding the cows out to pasture. Also, we saw a group of boys about 12 years old who were wearing all black, had their faces painted and had two feathers sticking up on top of their heads.  It turns out that they are preparing for the circumcision ceremony.  The girls of the Massai tribe also undergo female circumcision, but the rest of Tanzania has abolished it. 

 Visiting the Massai Tribe…

The Massai men and boys carry a crook and I saw one man in town who had a long knife in a sheath around his waist.  Many of them have the large, stretched out holes in their earlobes.  The women wear gowns, usually vivid blue, long earrings and the wide, beaded collars around their necks.  The Massai people's faces are more defined and angular than those of the Chagga.  They are taller than most Tanzanians and have longer limbs. The men look very proud and I can envision them as fierce warriors. 

 As we got closer to the village, we could see it's design.  From the hill. The huts were built in a circular pattern.  We were greeted at the village gate by the men singing and dancing.  The singing had a really primitive sound and was filled by whoops and jumping. Very interesting and just what I would have imagined.

 They took us inside one of their huts.  I could not see a thing and the owner of the hut kept motioning me forward, further inside the pitch-blackness.  I could not stand up straight.  He had us sit down on the bed which was basically a shelf with a straw mat and I heard a sound behind me.  It turns out that a mother and her baby were sitting on the bed behind me.  I felt like I was really invading their space.  They had a fire in the middle of the hut.  They also had a space for the children to sleep and a place for their livestock to sleep at night.  Cozy. 

 In the center of the village was a large circular corral structure.  It was filled three feet high with compacted manure which we realized was the source of the swarms of flies.  These flies were profuse. There was one little child who had a runny nose and his face was almost covered in flies until his mom shooed them away.   We all tried to speak to Swahili as well as we could and the tribe's people really appreciated the fact that we did, although our vocabulary was very limited. 

 Safari in the Ngorongoro crater…  "Wilson, are we in danger?"

After the Massai village, we drove into the Ngorogoro Crater. The crater was created by a volcanic eruption. It is actually just a humongous bowl.  It is unlike the other areas we have been in that it is a completely wide-open space.  The other areas have been filled with very dense foliage and trees making it more challenging to spot the animals. 

 Wilson, our guide had taken another group of volunteers a few weeks ago. That time, a lion got really close to the car and he said "Be quiet, we are in danger." That was because the lion could have gotten riled and tried to pull one of them out of the open window.  So, we told Wilson that we waned to be in danger.  He just laughed at us.  Every now and then we would say "Wilson, are we in danger?"  He would say "No, you are not in danger."  Finally at the end of the crater when we were ascending the narrow, bumpy road, he at last said "We are in danger". 

 In the crater, we saw a lot of the same animals we did at the lake and in addition, we saw impalas, ostrich, lions, jackals, hyenas, pink flamingos, hippos and rhinos.  The funniest and most entertaining animals to watch were the hippos. They were all floating in a murky, muddy pond and would occasionally turn over.  It was hilarious to see these rotund creatures roll over to their backs – exposing their pink bellies and stubby little feet.

 After the safari, we had a five-hour drive back to CCS. I think I had reached a record-breaking level of dustiness along with butt numbness this weekend. 

 Monday Feb 21

 Another good day at the orphanage…

I took some of the older kids to color and look at books.  Then, I went to play with the 18-month-olds.  There is one little boy named Noelle who is very passive.  I finally got a smile out of him when I was looking at a book of baby animals. There are a couple of other little ones who are also passive and I am making it a point to spend time holding them and reading to them even though they don't rush up to me like Emile and Noella.  Little Noella is the baby girl with whom I have fallen in love.  This little girl has a sense of humor.  She has this face she makes where she scrunches it up and looks very serious.  I make the same face it back to her, but then I wind up cracking up.  As I am laughing, she continues to hold that face.  She is always cheerful unless there is really something wrong.

 After playing with the toddlers, I went to the girl's room for a while.  This week, the government schools are closed, so there was a twelve year old girl named Mary Pendo who helped with the younger kids.  Mary is someone who has the spirit of a girl her age, but the aura of someone much older and wiser.  She speaks pretty good English and is so good with the kids.  She knew when to hold them to get them to quit crying, or when to tease them to get them to quit crying and when to give a little correction for undesirable behavior.  I guess she partly gets this from her experience as one of these ids.  The kids love her and she has been a great help. Also, she reads English very well and has a cute, playful sense of humor.  She loves to tease us. 

 Today, the nurses put on some music and since now I am an expert on African dancing (from my lessons at Honey Badger), I started dancing with a few of the little girls.  The kids and the nurses thought this was hilarious and this provided a good span of entertainment.  There is a little girl named Basalisa who normally has not warmed up to me easily.  As I was feeding the little kids their lunch, she and Lillian came over and sat on my lap.  I feel badly because I think that maybe these kids are old enough that they know that at some point I will be leaving and therefore don't get too attached. I wonder what I can do to make this easier for them.  I hope that in March there will be another volunteer coming so I can help them get to know the kids before I leave.

 Another cool thing happened today.  A nurse started singing Amazing Grace in English and I joined her.  She looked surprised and delighted that we both knew the same song.  So we sang three verses while the kids listened.  I am making connections with the nurses which will help me in doing my job better.  I think it will help them trust me so they will listen to my ideas.

Tues Feb 21

 Wild kids

I am not sure if there was something in the water or what, but the kids were wild today.  It was extremely hot today so that even the Tanzanians were complaining of it.  They are saying that it will cool off when the rains start in March.  So anyway, there was just a lot of hitting, crying, hitting, biting and peeing.  I spent some time looking at some of the books I brought from home and the kids did really enjoy that.  Also, the View Master I brought along from home has been a hit with the kids and the nurses too.  One of the nurses was looking a Monsters Inc. slide and screamed whenever there was a scary one.  Mary Pendo – who is with us all week due to school closing, also got a huge kick out of the view master.

 A couple of the older girls, Lillian and Basalisa have continued to warm up to me.  Today, Basalisa wanted me to hold her - when I first came to the orphanage, she would hardly look at me.  So now, this is especially awesome that she trusts me.

 Lunch with Mama Lucy…

After work, we (Anna, Julie and I) had been invited back to the Honey Badger Cultural Center by the founder Mama Lucy.  We were tired and extremely h